Cycling in New Zealand: Alps2Ocean Cycle Trail

We completed this beautiful and varied ride in two parts, firstly in late September 2022 when we arrived in NZ, and four weeks later after completing the Otago Central Rail Trail and numerous day bike rides and hikes further south. Frequent shuttle services with a company called Cycle Journeys made it possible for us to complete a recommended section and have Chris picked up at the end of each riding day and taken back to retrieve our van. Our only night away from the van was at Ohau Lodge at the end of Day 3 when we returned in late October. Surfaces varied: sealed road sections, rough and rocky tracks but mainly smooth shingle.

Day 1 Lake Pukaki

Day 1 & 2 (late September 2022)

Officially, Alps2Ocean starts at Mt Cook. After a short ride, a helicopter takes bikes and riders over the Tasman River and deposits them at Rotten Tommy. The rough shingle road then heads down the valley hugging the glacial blue expanse of Lake Pukaki to the start of a dedicated cycle trail to the Lake Pukaki lookout. We cycled a section of this road on our first day after a night at a lakeside freedom camp. Mt Cook, which had been under cloud when we started riding, was unveiled as we rode. A spectacular view and a great start to our version of Alps2Ocean.

The next morning we tackled the off road trail around the lake to the Lake Pukaki lookout. Mt Cook, a mountain of many moods, was veiled by cloud and the lake was slate grey rather than the glacial blue of yesterday. Still beautiful though. In the afternoon we rode the section to Twizel and back across the brown flat expanse of Pukaki Flats with mountain views as a back drop. Mt Cook was clear again by late afternoon and we spent a second night freedom camping on Lake Pukaki, this time at a closer point to Mt Cook.

Lake Pukaki
Mt Cook on our first day
Beer and cheese with a view
Alps2Ocean sign
On the trail heading towards Lake Pukaki lookout
Lake Pukaki Lookout
Pukaki Flats to Twizel
Morning light on Mt Cook
Evening light on Mt Cook
Freedom camping at the power station on Lake Pukaki

Day 3 & 4 (October 29 & 30, 2022)

Four weeks later we returned ready to complete the journey to the ocean. With a shuttle organised, we left our van at Twizel with the intention of staying a night at Lake Ohau Lodge and being picked up the next day in Omarama. All went to plan. The sun shone as we rode the sealed road section besides two canals before reaching Lake Ohau and cycling on a gravel path beside the lake. Unfortunately the sun had disappeared by the time we reached the lake and the mountain views were obscured by cloud. The last stretch to the lodge was on a sealed road again with mist over the mountains at the head of the lake.

Cycling along the canal out of Twizel
Lake Ohau at the weir
The path around the lake
Lake Ohau Lodge

Dinner, bed and breakfast was included in the package and, for a change, we had a bed to sleep in and the company of other cyclists. We woke early next morning to clear skies and a stunning view of the lake and mountains. Mt Cook could even be seen behind the closer peaks. After leaving the lodge we began the climb up to the highest point of the trail at 900 metres. The ascent was steady, at times precipitous but what made it difficult was the large loose rocks that formed the trail’s surface. We bumped and bounced for over two hours. The ride was saved by rest stops to absorb the view of the snowy mountains and blue lake that we were leaving behind. This was the most difficult ascent of the entire Alps2Ocean. The reward was 27 kms of downhill, initially on a rough track, then a shingle and crunchy grey gravel road. We hardly pedalled all the way to Omarama.

Lake Ohau and mountains
Before the ascent
Climbing up
Looking back at yesterday’s Lake Ohau route
Creek crossing before the top
Tarnbrae High Point
Lunch at Quailburn Road
The descending road to Omarama

Days 5 & 6 – (October 31 & November 1, 2022) Omarama to Otematata then Kurow

The next two days involved riding around the edge of two huge dams, Lake Benmore and Lake Aviemore. These vast bodies of water have been created by the construction of huge dams. After starting out from Omarama in uncertain weather the trail runs down the Waitaki River Valley before connecting with Lake Benmore. The path was quite benign until a point called Sailors Cutting. From the cutting, the trail was rockier and more precipitous. It was spectacular riding though with views over bays and peninsulas and slab-like rock walls plunging into the water. We kept up a steady pace but it was slow going particularly climbing up to the dam wall. An enjoyable downhill run into Otematata, a beer and later a meal at the Otematata Hotel. Spent the night in our van on the Waitaki River.

On the trail Day 5 out of Omarama
Lake Benmore
The rocky section around Lake Benmore
Another one
Above Lake Benmore
Lunch with a view

It was raining the next morning as we rode across the Benmore Dam wall and it rained on and off throughout the morning. However, it was smooth and easy riding around Lake Aviemore which came next. On this 22 km section, after yesterday’s rough track, it felt like we had wings. Vacant caravans were parked on every flat spot on the lake shore, ghost towns waiting for summer holiday occupation! We sheltered inadequately from the rain at the Aviemore Dam wall. Tried to be cheerful. Rode on and the sun came out! After the wall, we enjoyed the dedicated cycle trail that mainly followed a fairly busy road down the valley. We reached Kurow by lunchtime, had a very nice cafe lunch and, after Chris had been shuttled back, a night in a caravan park.


A wet ride over the dam wall
After the rain on the trail beside the Waitaki River
Looking down on the trail beside the road

Day 7 & 8 (November 2 & 3) Kurow to Duntroon then to Oamaru

Back to sunshine and a tailwind to push us down the valley. No roads today, a dedicated cycle path all the way. Mainly flat riding past a vineyard, through lush farmland and avenues of riverside vegetation. Closer to Duntroon, the trail wound through a sculptured wetland. Duntroon offered another pub so we lashed out on an evening meal.

Vineyards
Paddocks
And a pub – Duntroon Hotel

Our last day dawned bright sunny and windless. This was to be our longest day with 54 kms to go to Oamaru and the ocean. It turned out to be a varied day, mainly off road, with a visit to Elephant Rocks after an easy 7 km. Often the trail meandered through paddocks with some uphill sections providing great views. There was even a railway tunnel at the end of a gravel road descent. Finally Oamaru and the ocean harbour, the end of the trail. On our version we rode about 300 kms.

Elephant Rocks
A scene from Lord of the Rings was filmed here
An avenue through the paddocks
Looking down from the highest point of the day
Arriving in Oamaru
The end of the trail
The end of the trail

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